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The Christians among us will know the story of the marriage feast
of Cana in the gospel of St. John, when Jesus changed water into
wine, and also that Jesus used wine in the last supper - a choice
that is remembered at every celebration of mass. What may be less
well known is that wine is mentioned 155 in the Old Testament and
10 times in the New. Wine and religion are inexorably inter-twined.
In Exodus we find the Hebrews regretting having to leave their
vineyards in Egypt, but all was well - in the Promised Land they
found the Plain of Sharon green with vines and before long Palestine
was covered in vineyards. Given this close relationship with the
vine and its wine, it's no surprise then that by the time of Jesus
wine was an integral part of the Judaic way of life.
With the fall of the Roman Empire came Europe's Dark Ages, when
the role of the monks and the monasteries became crucial in preserving
the remnants of classical civilisation as well as keeping viticulture
alive. As Christianity spread across Europe so did monasteries,
and with them came vineyards. As early as the 1100s the Cistercians
were making wine at Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy. In early mediaeval
times monks were making wine in Southeast England as well as in
all of Europe's major wine-making areas.
The Christian Crusaders who fought against the Saracens brought
back to Europe the Muscat grape, which today produces the wines
of Rivesaltes. But they also learned a new trick from the abstemious
Saracens: the art of distilling. There are still words in our vocabulary
that date from this: alcohol, which in Arabic is al-kuhl,
and the word we use for a simple still - alembic - is also from
the Arabic, al-anbiq.
Perhaps the most notable contribution of the monks to the art of
vinification is that of Dom Perignon, the cellar-master monk credited
with the discovery of Champagne as we now know it. But after close
to a thousand years of dominating wine production, the monasteries
began to lose out. The first assault was by Henry VIII of England
who plundered the monasteries of their wealth and took control of
their assets. After the French Revolution the vineyards were taken
from the nobles and the Church and redistributed among the people,
an action that has left Burgundy even today with many small holdings.
Not long after, Napoleon did the same thing in Germany and soon
politicians and statesmen were taking over the vineyards. Talleyrand
took over Chateau Haut Brion and Metternich took over Schloss Johannisberg.
Since then, wine has become secularised.
Wine of the Week.
Novas 2002, Cabernet / Merlot (Organic)
People who suffer from 'organic panics' will often buy products
simply because the word 'organic' appears on the label. When it
comes to wines this broad brush-stroke approach won't always deliver
a good wine. This Chilean wine is made from organically grown grapes
and has a deep bouquet and an almost purplish hue. It's a big wine,
but it's soft and velvety on the palate.
Available O'Brien's Off-Licenses €9.99 (limited stocks)
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