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Every now and then I succumb to the fantasy that it might be possible
to make money from shrewd investments in wine. There's no doubt that it
can be done, there are people who do it. But a thought came to me recently
that just might work, and I thought I'd share it with you.
Just to clarify the picture, investing in wine means buying wines that
increase in value with age. Very few wines fall into this category, the
vast majority of wines out there in the market place are young wines,
made to be drunk young. And that's the point; unless a wine is specifically
made for ageing it won't improve with the passing years and its value
doesn't rise. Increasingly few wine-makers are choosing this route, the
best commercial sense is making wines that mature quickly and that will
be sold and drunk within two years. There are wineries all over the world
that make wines for bottle ageing, but the place that has made a virtue
of it is Bordeaux.
So how do you make money out of investing in Bordeaux wines? The answer
is to know quicker than everyone else whether a vintage will turn into
a good one or not. Back in 1983 practically all the American wine writers
were talking the 1982 vintage down. It was regarded almost universally
as a bad vintage. Only one voice differed, Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate,
and because1982 is now generally regarded as one of the century's better
vintages, his reputation was instantly made. So the traditional way of
investing was to go Bordeaux, taste the new vintage in the raw and then
trust your palate with your investment. Buying 'en primeur' - before the
wine is bottled - means that you also buy before the market fixes the
price by demand. Get it right early and you can double your money in a
year. But suppose you can't get to Bordeaux and suppose you can't trust
your palate? Then maybe my new idea would work.
Great vintages are made by great weather. Sun when it's needed for ripening,
rain when it's needed for watering, both in the right quantities and both
at the right time. All you need to do is match the weather pattern for
any year to previous years' patterns and you can tell if it's going to
be a good vintage or not. I'll come back to this on and off throughout
the coming year and let's see if we can predict the quality of 2004's
vintage by October at the latest.
Wine of the Week
Sauvignon Blanc Villa Maria, 2002 Private Bin
This is a classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. Like
many producers in the Antipodes, Villa Maria are bottling their wines
with a screw cap, a closure that works well for wines designed to be drunk
young. It has an aromatic nose and the fresh crispness that you'd expect,
but it also has an elegance and length that sets it apart from others
in its class.
RRP €14.99, widely available.
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