Food and Beer

Much has been written about the marriage of food and wine. It's one that works well, it must do, it's stood the test of centuries and still we enjoy the combination. But there are other combinations, like Guinness and oysters, that work just as well. In countries where there is no indigenous wine culture, other drinks, most commonly beer, take on the role as accompaniment to food. And just as with wine, there are combinations that work better than others. It may be annoying to wine snobs, but beer has a much longer history of human consumption than wine. It has seniority.

I'd never really thought about matching beer and food until recently. I was being shown around the Asia Pacific Brewery in Singapore and we stopped for a while to sample some of their brews with Chong Lee Ang, their European export manager. Their main product, indeed the beer that dominates much of south-east Asia is Tiger, but they also brew Heineken, Guinness, Kilkenny Irish Ale and Erdinger Weissbier amongst others. So with a large choice of beers available we sat in their hospitality bar and worked through some beer and food combinations. I offer the fruits of this intense and arduous labour to you now.

Heineken. The first of the beers that we tasted and it came along with salty canapés, with which it went perfectly. Its bitter, hoppy flavour makes it a good foil for oily foods, like cashews and smoked salmon.

Guinness Extra Stout. Obviously oysters, but it works just as well with mussels. It's a delight with Singapore's Oyster omelette.

Guinness Draught. Works well with all of the above, but to my surprise works very well with dark chocolate. Any combination of chocolate and dessert would be a good marriage.

Erdinger Weissbier. This German classic is a lightly-flavoured beer whose yeasty flavours can be easily overpowered when accompanying food. Simple, delicately flavoured foods go best, like soup or fresh cheeses.

Kilkenny Irish Ale. The aroma and taste of roasted malt goes well with red meats, so in a pub this is a beer to go with your ham or roast beef sandwich or a pepperoni pizza.

Tiger Beer. Singapore's own favourite beer, shares a dry hoppiness with European style lagers, but works really well with the spiciness and saltiness of Asian foods. Easily cuts through the oiliness of fried foods. Surprisingly it goes well with vinegar, something that no wine will happily do, so you can use it as an accompaniment for pickles and gherkins too.

Wine of the Week.

Las Casas del Toqui Chardonnay Grande Reserve 1999

Chardonnay may well be reaching the point of sensory overload. There's a fatigue factor slowly gathering momentum as people sigh and mutter quietly, 'Oh god, not another Chardonnay.' But if your faith in this great and noble grape needs a refresher course, try this offering from Las Casas del Toqui. The words luscious and creamy won't be far from your thoughts as you sip it. On special offer at €9.49 until October 5th at Dunnes Stores, it's excellent value.

© Paolo Tullio, 2004