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You can buy a really good wine for €50 - when you spend more than
that you're buying prestige, or a label that matches your life-style,
or rarity. None the less there are real costs that go into the making
of a bottle of wine and these costs are reflected in the final price.
Firstly you need the land. Great wine-growing land like Haut Medoc Grands
Crus sells for huge money per acre. Simply good land can cost upwards
of €50,000 an acre. That cost goes into the bottle.
The grapes come next. Wine grapes can be bought for as little as 800
euros a tonne, which is fine for cheap wines, but good grapes can cost
€10,000 a tonne. A good French barrel for oaking your wines costs
€600. It holds about 300 bottles worth, so that adds €2 a bottle
if it's used just once, which is normal for good wines. An expensive glass
bottle costs €2, a cheap one 50 cents. A good cork costs nearly €1,
a cheap one maybe 10 cents. Good quality labelling and capsules cost,
and so does the box the wine comes in. All things that can be expensive
or cheap.
Out in the vineyard you can pick mechanically which is cheap, but non-selective
in its harvesting, or you can pick carefully by hand, which costs a great
deal more. In the winery you can use only the free-run juice, or you can
press all the juice from the grapes which gives you more wine, but a coarser
quality. All these elements determine the cost at the gates of the vineyard.
But on the retailer's shelf the only variable is the mark-up. Big supermarkets
can buy at a lower price than small merchants because they buy such huge
quantities, but some supermarkets charge you less for their work. I've
just tasted a range of wines from Lidl Supermarkets and all of them are
very keenly priced. Some are amazing value, so here's my pick of the crop.
Chilean Merlot, Central Valley
Merlot is the grape the Chileans seem to do best with. This one is purple
hued and full bodied with distinct berry fruit flavours and aromas. At
€6.99 it comes at the upper end of the Lidl range.
Chateau Haut La Graviere, 2001, Cru Bourgeois.
A cru Bourgeois is the intermediary step between a simple AC Claret and
a Grand Cru. Lovers of Bordeaux tend to look to crus bourgeois for value,
and this is a good example. A classic-style claret, austere and dry, but
with some length and structure. It's a steal at €8.89.
Wine of the Week
Chablis 2002. Crisp, clean and slightly flinty in taste it has all the
freshness of a bite of Granny Smith's. Exceptional value at €8.99.
All wines available at Lidl Supermarkets.
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