Duty Free

Christmas is coming sooner that you think, and with its advent come the traditional pastimes of eating and drinking. It's one time of year when there's drink to be found in almost every household, even in teetotal ones it can be found as a part of the Yuletide hospitality. With all the hospitality abounding, another thing comes into sharp focus; expense. After the toys for all the kids, the scarf for Aunty Mary, the patterned socks for Uncle Paddy and the turkey, you still have to find a few bob for drink.

You don't need me to tell you how expensive alcohol is here. Duty is paid on every gallon or part thereof that comes into the country, so the higher the alcoholic content, the higher the duty you pay. We've been used to this for so long you could be forgiven for thinking that it's the norm everywhere. You probably remember not so long ago, the government was good enough to let you bring a bottle of whiskey back into the country 'duty free', which meant it cost a couple of quid less and made you think you were getting a bargain. 'Duty Free' is no longer with us a source for cheaper drink and many might say 'more's the pity'.

In truth, it's no pity at all. Wines and spirits were sold 'duty free' by airport authorities and ferry operators. They may have been free from duty, but they were very heavily marked up in profit. The only reason the prices still looked reasonable was because we were so used to paying high rates of duty. So where does that leave us? You are now obliged to buy all wines and spirits 'duty paid'. But here's the thing; we're members of the EU, so if your whiskey's 'duty paid' in Spain, that's valid for here.

Every other euro-zone country has much lower rates of duty on wines, spirits and beers than we do. In practice that means you can go to France, buy all the beer and wine you want, put it in the back of your car and drive home waving at the customs men as you legally pass them by. You can bring in as much as you want, although you may still have to argue that its all for your personal use if questioned. Once the duty has been paid in an EU country, the alcohol is free to travel within the EU boundaries.

Wine of the Week

Mitchelton Airstrip. Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier. 2001

One of the whites from the Mitchelton range, this one is a blend of three grapes with an original pedigree in the Rhone Valley. Made in Central Victoria, this blend has been partially oaked and the three varieties have come together harmoniously. It has the almost oily richness of the viognier and full fruit flavours of marsanne and roussanne, giving the wine overtones of peach and flowery aromas.

Available in selected Dunnes Stores, RRP €16.99.

© Paolo Tullio, 2004