There are certain business models that appeal to old hippies like me a great deal more than others. The Enron and Worldcom paradigm, quite apart from its greed, hypocrisy, hubris and disdain for the law, is based on eternal growth and acquisition. The word 'sustainable' doesn't seem to part of their vocabulary. On the other hand there are business models like 'Ben and Jerry's' ice-cream, where all the old hippie values are embodied. Surprisingly, it works, and more importantly, it makes no enemies.

Back in the heady days of Woodstock and 'The Whole Earth Catalogue' there were people who wanted to change the world by being careful, rather than wasteful, with resources. Recycling and using renewable resources were part of that era's zeitgeist. We were a generation of optimists - we were going to change the world. Thirty years on, big business still rules and business schools are busier than ever, but there are little pockets out there where different philosophies change the rules.

The most obvious rebellion is in the food business, where a few determined and principled people decided to promote 'organic' foods, much against the wishes of large chemical companies who prefer selling inorganic fertilisers to help monoculture over-produce. In the wine trade, a place where old habits die hard and new ones are slow to be adopted, there are producers who make wines from organically grown grapes and that's your 'organic' wine. Mostly they're small producers who have a vision, but there's a big, successful company out there playing by the new rules and successfully, too. Not surprisingly, it's in California.

Press releases from Fetzer Vineyards use words like 'organic', 'earth-friendly', 'holistic', 'free-thinking' - and I loved this, - a 'San Franciscan attitude to life', so you get the picture. These wine-makers are the embodiment of the Woodstock generation, and they're very serious about what they do. The Bonterra range from Fetzers has The Soil Association's certification (the first and only for the moment) - no fertilisers, no pesticides and no herbicides are used in these naturally farmed grapes. And to complete their vision of 'holistic wine-making' they even make their own barrels in Mendocino which are used for barrel ageing. Paper and packaging are totally recycled and they use only renewable energy in the winery.

There's no doubt that this care and vision brings results. Fetzers new 'Barrel Select' range includes an excellent Chardonnay where the barrel ageing shows off the grape well.

Wine of the Week

Bonterra Zinfandel 1999

Made entirely organically with the classic Californian grape, the Zinfandel, this is a well-structured wine that really gets the best from the grape, making a wine with intense fruit flavours. Another boon is the low level of sulphites in the wine and no copper sulphate sprayed on the grapes. These are the chemicals often associated with the band of pain across the forehead after drinking cheap white wines.

Available Supervalu, Molloy's, O'Briens and selected independents. RRP €16.63