Our increasingly global markets have had a transforming effect upon the ancient and, some might say, stuffy wine trade. It's a trade with a venerable history; wines were moved around the ancient world by boat, barge and cart allowing Britons to drink wines from Greece, Italy and Gaul. It was a pattern that remained unchanged for many centuries. The British still buy much of their wine from France, a link to the Norman and Plantagenet kings who reigned over both Britain and France, and traditional trading routes have been the norm across Europe.

The explosive growth of wine production in the New World has caused huge changes, not only because their increasing penetration of the market has altered buying patterns, but because their styles are being emulated by the more traditionally bound wine-makers of Europe. Because the New World wine-makers have had very little historical baggage, they have been very much in the forefront of adopting and experimenting with new technologies. Back in the eighties there was a significant marketing event when the 'Flying Winemakers' - a group of Australians - were invited to France to make wines using the new technologies. The wines that they made caused something of a stir: new styles of wines were created using the traditional grapes and harvesting techniques of the French countryside.

There hasn't been much a media splash about this cross-fertilisation since then, but the process hasn't stopped. Many of France's distinguished wine houses have bought properties in under-developed regions of France where they have begun to experiment with the new techniques. The French are cautious people, so before they try anything new on a venerable old estate in Bordeaux they try it out first somewhere else. Burgundians like Louis Latour have bought vineyards in the Ardeche, many Bordelaises have bought in Provence and Languedoc. When you start a winery from virgin territory like this there's no tradition to be bound to, you're free to create a new style of wine and you can experiment freely.

The crossover of ideas and techniques between the old and new world, like most things, has good and less good effects. There's a danger that wines will lose their traditional terroir and may become increasingly similar no matter where they're made. On the other hand where new methods bring good results, we wine drinkers can only benefit.

Wine of the Week

Kiwi Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc 2001

The New Zealanders have almost managed to make the Sauvignon Blanc grape their own. It's probably true to say that the best wines made from this variety come from there. The Kiwi Cuvee is a crossover wine - it's made in the Loire Valley in France, but the wine-makers are New Zealanders. Consequently it has the unmistakeable New Zealand style. Crisp and fresh with a hint of gooseberry, it's a wine that drinks well without food, but which would go well with oily fish like mackerel or smoked salmon.

Part of Superquinns French Wine Sale, sale price €6.67, usual price €8.24.