The word 'organic' is one that we can find increasingly on our food products and it's becoming more common on wine labels as well. Like most things, I suspect it's neither entirely good or entirely bad - its protagonists emphasise only the good, people like me will point out what they'd prefer you not to know. Let's be clear on one thing here; the word 'organic' is as much a marketing tool as any other sop to consumer demands.

So let's begin at the beginning. The French association of organic growers is called 'Terre et Vie'. Its rule book is almost entirely devoted to the growing of the vines rather than the vinification process. It is primarily an association of organic vine growers, with the wine-making coming a very poor second. While the vines are in the process of growing throughout the spring and summer, growers all over the world use two sprays universally: sulphur sprays to keep the fungal infection oidium at bay and copper sulphate sprays to stop mildew. Organic growers use both these sprays.

The beneficial effects of copper sulphate solution, or Bordeaux mixture, was discovered by accident in the nineteenth century in Bordeaux. Famous chateaux tried to stop grape thieves by spraying their roadside vines with poison, amongst these was copper acetate. When this became too expensive they moved to copper sulphate, with its distinctive blue residue left on the leaves. In 1882 it was found that the sprayed vines had suffered no mildew, so ever since it's been used to counteract mildew. The argument as to whether copper sulphate and potassium (which grapes absorb) can turn into corrosive potassium sulphate has still not been resolved.

All organic wine-makers need to add sulphur dioxide to their wines. It's virtually impossible to produce a stable wine without it, whether during fermentation or before bottling or both. It's especially true if the grapes have had no sprays to counter micro-bacteria, since bacteria and unwanted yeasts can affect the fermentation adversely. So you need sulphur during fermentation and then again at bottling to prevent oxidisation, and possibly more as an organic grower than a conventional one. Terre et Vie allow 100 milligrams of sulphur dioxide per litre, and few growers make wine with less than this. The question is whether sulphites are harmful or not. The World Heath Organisation has suggested that an average adult should ingest no more than 50 milligrams a day, so even a bottle of organic wine would put you well over that recommended limit.

In America the Food and Drug Administration has banned sulphite preservatives from vegetables and American wines are obliged to state 'contains sulphites' on the label, although stating how much they contain isn't yet obligatory. For the moment an ingredients list on a label of European wines seems a long way off.

Wine of the Week

Le Rime, Banfi 2001

This is a Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio blend from Tuscany, which works well. It's a light, fresh tasting wine with a greenish tint, which accentuates its youthful verve. Easy drinking, even without food.

Available Pettitts Supermarkets, RRP €11.95