Wars followed by treaties have had a defining effect on the political geography of Europe. At the end of the first World War, Italy took over the Aosta Valley, a French-speaking enclave, that would have liked to remain French. It also took over the Sud Tyrol, a German-speaking area whose inhabitants were outraged at being made Italians. To balance this, Istria, which was always Italian, became part of the newly created Jugoslavia, much to their distress. Divisions like these - drawn on bits of paper - affect real people and real lives, and mostly it's to their annoyance.

No area has had quite as many changes as the Alsace. Currently French, it's been ruled alternately by Germany and France. French though it is now, most of its place names, customs and surnames are German, as indeed is their local patois. It has always been one of great wine-producing areas of Europe, its vineyards stretching for seventy miles or so along the eastern slopes of the Vosges mountains, near the Franco-German border. You could say that here German wines are made in the French style, but that's only a part of the picture. Alsatians are always questing after strength in their wines, whilst the Germans seek sweetness. The finest German wines aren't really an adjunct to the table - they're better suited to the garden or drawing room - whereas the great Alsatian wines are made to match one of France's great regional cuisines.

The area differs from the rest of France in this important regard: here they market their wines by grape variety and not by region. The merchants can by law buy wine from within the appellation and bottle the blend under a varietal name, like Sylvaner or Riesling. Gewurztraminer is probably the best known Alsatian variety, and its one that Alsatians have made almost their own. The word 'gewurz' means 'spice' in German, and spice is exactly what you get in the taste of the wine, often lingering for minutes on the palate after the wine has been swallowed. Pinot Gris and Muscat are also made - the Muscat surprising, because in Alsace it's made dry, while still retaining its grapey bouquet. A Tokay is also made, but it has no similarities with the Hungarian wine. Here it's full-bodied, not perfumed, and makes an alternative to a white Burgundy. The Sylvaner is their factotum, often good but rarely exceptional, it's light and crisp and often accompanies the first course, as a lead into a great Riesling. For Alsatians the Riesling is their 'grand vin'. Made here, Riesling accomplishes that rare thing; a harmony between soft and hard, between fruitiness and strength.

Wine of the Week

Riesling Tradition 2000, Domaine Sipp Mack

Like many Alsatian Rieslings this one is high in alcohol at 12%, yet the first sensation on the palate is of fruit, where the Riesling grape dominates. Dry in finish and with a strong bouquet, it's a wine that would go well with oily fish, like smoked salmon or mackerel.

Available Mitchells Kildare Street and Sandycove, RRP €12.17