The two largest islands in the Mediterranean, Sicily and Sardinia, are politically part of Italy. In truth both of these islands are different from the mainland, and Sardinia in particular has much to make it very different. The flora and fauna are a case in point. Sardinian rabbits and donkeys are smaller than their European mainland counterparts, there are birds that are found only there, and bizarrely Sardinian bees make honey that is almost bitter.

Sardinia, which sits almost in the middle of the Tyrrhenian, is mountainous and has been inhabited from prehistoric times. Viti-archaeologists have discovered that even these earliest of inhabitants cultivated the vine - since little else thrives in the hard granite soil. Its coastline is spectacular; clear water and sandy shores have made it a tourist haven in recent years, but its interior has a mysterious air. Huge stone monuments of unknown origin, giants' tombs, witches' houses and strange conical stone towers called nuraghi pepper the island. Wine-making is still a major part of Sardinia's economy and in recent years the number of DOCs has grown enormously.

Perhaps its best-known exported wine is Cannonau, a ruby red wine made from the grape of the same name. In its exported form it's always dry, but in Sardinia it's frequently fortified and drunk as a dessert wine. The Vernaccia di Oristano is a dry, amber-coloured wine that is often high in alcohol, 16% being quite common. Like many Sardinian whites it has a slightly bitter aftertaste. In the north they make Vermentino di Gallura, a delicate white, some Malvasia is made, and like everywhere on the island much dessert wine is made. Truly excellent dessert wines are made in Sardinia, perhaps a legacy of the centuries of Spanish domination. Both the Malvasia and the Moscato grape are used for dessert wines, as well as the native Nasco grape which is used to make the luscious wine of the same name. It has been said that Nasco di Cagliari is the closest to the Imperial Tokaj of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

One of the first companies to break traditional moulds and begin a serious export drive was Sella and Mosca, which operates from Alghero. The firm is of Piedmontese origin - the Sella was a family of statesmen, bankers and economists. Until 1870 Piedmont was part of the kingdom of Sardinia, which may explain the connection. Since then other firms and co-operatives have joined the export train, companies like the Cantina Gallura and Santa Maria La Palma, both of which make an extensive range of wines. Little-known and under-appreciated, the wines of Sardinia are a treasure-trove for the adventurous to explore.

Wine of the Week

Vermentino di Sardegna 'I Papiri', Santa Maria La Palma.

At 13% it's strong, like many Sardo wines, but that's offset by its lingering fruity taste and its typical, slightly tart aftertaste. It's marginally petillant, which adds a zesty feel to the palate. It would be a perfect accompaniment for an oily fish, such as smoked salmon or mackerel.
Available Redmonds, McCabes, Deveneys and Harvest Kitchen Naas.
RRP €12.80