The Roman writer Ovid commented that 'the vine benefits from proximity to a river', an observation that any grower will confirm. The great vineyards of Europe are all in symbiotic relationships with rivers and France is no exception to that rule. The Loire and the Rhone, the largest rivers of France, are also home to intense vine cultivation. Most of wines of the Loire are white and most of the wines of the Rhone are red, a function of the geography and climate of the two rivers.

The vineyards of the Rhone follow the course of the river from Vienne, south of Lyons, almost uninterruptedly southwards to Valence. From here there are few vineyards until the river reaches Avignon, where the other main area of viticulture is centred. The northern section is home to the Rhone valley's great white wine, Condrieu as well as the prestigious Cote Rotie; further south, nearer to Valence is the better known appellation of Hermitage, where Crozes Hermitage and Tain Hermitage are produced.

In general the red wines of the Rhone valley are big and robust, made from well-ripened grapes that mature easily in the hot summers. For the most part they are not made from one grape variety as is common elsewhere, but rather from a blend of many varieties, the most commonly used being the Syrah. This technique of blending reaches its zenith with Chateau Neuf du Pape, where as many as thirteen varieties are used to create the wine.

The Cotes du Rhone appellation is commonly found and is a general appellation of reds, whites and roses from one hundred and fifty or so communes along the river. Cotes du Rhone Villages is applied only to fourteen communes at the southern end and these are generally superior to the simple appellation. The best wines of the Rhone valley have their own appellation - Chateau Grillet in Condrieu having the distinction of being the smallest vineyard with its own appellation in France, as well as unusually using only one grape variety, the Viognier.

Between the great and the ordinary wines of the Rhone there are village wines; wines like Cornas, Gigondas, Saint Joseph, Saint Peray and the lesser-known Vacqueras. At their best they reflect the terroir of their respective areas; Cornas and Saint Joseph being aromatic but with less body than Hermitage; Gigondas and Vacqueras, supple and high in alcohol as a result of their southern position.

The hot, long summers of Southern France means that vintages are not as variable here as they are in the Bordeaux, but some years are more successful than others. The reds age well, softening as they grow older, but whites are at their best when young.

Wine of the Week

Vacqueras, Alain Jaume, 2000

Smooth and a lot softer than many Rhone reds, it takes its name from the village of the same name, slightly to the west of Gigondas and north of Chateau Neuf du Pape. It's pedigree is long: vines were grown here early Roman times.

Available Mitchell's Wine Shop, RRP €14.00