Although Spain has more acreage under vine than France or Italy, it produces less wine than either, and until recently its only wines that were well-known internationally were Sherry and Rioja. This perception is changing quite rapidly, as other wine-producing areas of Spain have moved from generic wine production into quality wines, and they have been marketing them aggressively. There are some twenty-five major wine regions in Spain, most of them still unknown outside their homeland, but three are making inroads into the international market place - Navarre on the opposite bank of the River Ebro from the Rioja; Penedes on the coast between Barcelona and Tarragona and Valdepenas (pronounce this carefully) an island in the central region of La Mancha, the region that produces more wine than anywhere else in Spain.

La Mancha, home of Don Quixote and Dulcinea, is a plateau which stretches south-eastwards from Madrid. From here vineyards stretch from horizon to horizon all the way to Valencia on the Mediterranean coast. It's a vast area, almost totally devoted to viticulture, which traditionally made table wines for the Madrid market. Valdepenas, a town at the southern edge of the region, whose name means 'stony valley', gives its name to the denomination that surrounds it. The town itself, full of countless bodegas, is almost totally dedicated to wine. It's a part of Spain where you can still see a pellejo in use, a container made from the whole hide of a pig. Perhaps a little off-putting to look at, they none the less make good, airtight containers in which wine keeps well.

Although much of the production of Valdepenas is still sold as blending wine and wine for making Spanish brandy, a lot of effort has recently been put into developing its quality wines. The most frequently planted grapes are the Cencibel and Monastrel, which thrive in the subsoil made up of gravel, chalk and clay. The climate is continental, with little rainfall and extreme temperature differences between day and night. This combination ensures that yields are low, giving the wines a concentration of flavour and colour.

New plantings of grapes like the Tempranillo coupled with more modern techniques of vinification, have meant a change in the character of the wines produced. The wines of the Valdepenas were once known as light, fresh wines with little acidity and a deep colour, best suited for drinking young. Today the area also produces wines that are suitable for ageing, with a complexity of structure comparable to wines from the Rioja.

Wine of the Week
Vina Albali Gran Reserva 1995

Made from Tempranillo grapes, this is a good example of the new-style Manchego wines. A deep ruby red in colour, it has a fruity bouquet which opens up once the wine is uncorked. The use of the Tempranillo ensures that there's sufficient tannin in the wine for balance. Even at its normal retail price of 8.62 euros, it's good value for a wine of this calibre.
Available Superquinn, on special offer at 7.99 euros.