Different grape varieties can make surprisingly different wines depending on where they are grown. Some varieties become entirely at home when they find a set of climactic circumstances that suits them, for example the Sauvignon Blanc, a wine that frequently makes undistinguished wines in Europe, makes some wonderful wines in New Zealand. Just as the Californians have made the Shiraz their own, the South Africans have made the Pinotage theirs. The Cinsault grape, which for so long dominated the production of South African reds, was eventually crossed with the Pinot Noir to create the Pinotage, a grape variety that is now peculiar to South Africa. It's not a grape that is often considered noble, but it can make some good wines. Recently I tasted five, all under £10, and all with the distinctive flavour of the Pinotage grape.

Oude Kaap Pinotage 1999

A medium-bodied wine, garnet in colour, with a surprisingly complex structure given its budget price. There are hints of berry and licquorice. £5.99

Oude Kaap Pinotage Reserve 1999

As you'd expect from a reserve that has been aged in wood, it's fuller in body and colour than the cheaper varietal from the same house. It retains some youthful sharp tannins, but softens on decanting. A wine that would benefit from bottle age. £7.99

Clos Malverne Pinotage 2000

A full-bodied and powerfully scented wine, big in flavour and still exhibiting tannins. Made by the traditional basket press method, it is unfiltered. Not a wine for sipping without food, it's strong flavours and high alcohol content would make it a good accompaniment for strongly-flavoured foods. £6.99

Clos Malverne Pinotage Reserve 1999

Bigger in every way than the non-reserve, except in alcoholic content (13.5% instead of 14%) it has a well-balanced elegance. Made from 30 year old vines, it's complex and subtle, but with a marked character of its own. An impressive wine for £8.99.

Clos Malverne Cabernet/Pinotage 1998

The blend of Pinotage with Cabernet Sauvignon gives this wine much more of a European character. Strong in alcohol at 14%, it has a deep colour and is softer in finish than the pure Pinotage varietals. £8.99

Wine of the Week

Clos Malverne Pinotage Reserve 1999

There's not a lot to choose between this and the Oude Kaap Reserve, but I felt that it's very individual style and elegance meant the extra pound was money well-spent. Originally I tasted all these wines at 17 degrees Celsius, but this one improved as it approached 19 degrees.

All wines available Dunne's Stores