The increasing use of varietals as a means of marketing wines has meant that the major grape varieties are almost common currency. There can be few these days who haven't heard of the Chardonnay grape or the Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's possible that many of those who have, might be wondering if they've taken over the wine producing world completely. Certainly these two varieties have colonised the globe from the Americas to the Antipodes, and in much of Europe are replacing other indigenous varieties.

Different grapes have different characteristics; some are of interest to the grower - things like ripening times and yield, others are of more interest to the consumer; things like the flavour, intensity and complexity that they give to the wine. In a perfect world the grape variety is matched to the particular micro-climate of where it is grown, which is why over the centuries particular grapes have become associated with different areas, which in turn has created the wine styles that are typical of that locality.

There are grapes that are grown specifically for blending; for example in the Bordeaux the Merlot is grown to blend with the Cabernet Sauvignon to add softness to the resulting wine, although it can make a fine stand-alone varietal. But the more that you taste wine, especially varietals, the more the you recognise the characteristics of the grape. One variety whose taste is unmistakable is the Muscat. This grape can be red or white, and was probably one of the first cultivated varieties, spreading with Greek civilisation from the Aegean throughout the Mediterranean, as far as France.

The Muscat is a sweet grape high in sugar content, mostly white, with a pronounced aroma and flavour. Traditionally it has been used to make sweet dessert wines - Beaumes de Venise is an example - as well as being used as a table grape. The wines made from Muscat are called Muscatel; in Italy it's the Moscato. In my part of Italy the Moscato is blended with other grapes to add interest to what might otherwise have been a dull wine. But despite it's almost exclusive use as a dessert wine grape, it's versatile enough to make a dry white wine. The Piedmontese co-operative 'Alasia' has made a dry Muscat, which maintains the aromas and pungency of the grape in a dry wine.

Wine of the Week

Alasia Dry Muscat

If you're used to the sweet Muscats, this wine comes as a surprise. It's very aromatic, but at the same time is crisply dry. I'd see this wine best served with pungent and aromatic dishes like Thai food, or with strongly flavoured fish like mackerel. If you were Sybaritic enough, it would also make an afternoon garden wine drunk without food.

Available Superquinn, Super Valu and selected off-licenses, £6.85