The vine is a fussy plant: it has very clear ideas of what climate it likes - not too hot, not too cold. Over the centuries wine-growers have developed varieties that can ripen even in the cooler Northern European climates, varieties like the Muller-Thurgau. But even these hardy strains are no match for the Irish summer, and despite a handful of notable exceptions, wine-making has never been an indigenous pursuit here.

Among my friends and neighbours in the Wicklow Hills we have a little joke; we refer to the chateaux Leoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton as local wines. I'll explain; the nearby Glendalough Estate was one of the seats of the Barton family (the other being Straffan) - the same family that produced Robert Barton of the Treaty, and the same one that produced Thomas Barton of the Wine Geese. These Irish families that emigrated to Bordeaux have left their names and mark on many of the great chateaux. Given the climate, it's about as close to wine as we can get.

The recent news that AIB chairman Mr Lochlainn Quinn and his wife, Brenda, have bought Château de Fieuzal for £36 million adds yet another Irish connection to Bordeaux. Situated in the Medoc, Château de Fieuzal is best known for its consistently good white Graves. The Quinns now join the Wine Geese - who include the Bartons of Châteaux Leoville-Barton and Langoa Barton, as well as the Lynches of Châteaux Lynch-Bages, Pontac-Lynch and Lynch-Moussas, the Kirwans, the Clarkes, the MacCarthys and the Dillons. There's an apocryphal story that you'll hear from time to time, that Chateau Haut Brion is a corruption of yet another Irish name, O'Brien, but I wouldn't bet on it.
For the Irish wine-drinker it's a pity that all these Irish names are tied to great chateaux of classed growth. In other words you won't buy any of them cheaply. But you can find wines with just a hint of Irishness without spending too much. The same Barton family of the great growths of the Saint Julien, is also half of the Bordeaux negociants Barton and Guestier. It's a brand that's well-known in Ireland and recently they've introduced a range of varietals, a Chardonnay, a Merlot, a Sauvignon and a Cabernet Sauvignon, which covers the best-known grape varieties.

Wine of the Week

Barton & Guestier Sauvignon Blanc 1999

Made in the Pays d'Oc, this is a light, crisp summer wine, made to enjoy on those summer afternoons. It has a fruity aroma and a pleasing balance between the fruit and acidity.
Widely available, RRP £6.99.