Sicily is the football at Italy's toe; a part of the Italian nation and yet apart from the Italian nation. In 1945 it nearly succeeded in seceding from Italy to become an autonomous state, such was their sense of separateness. In Sicily they're inclined to refer to 'the continent' when they mean the mainland, which says something of their insular view of themselves. Apart from the Mafia, Sicily isn't know internationally for much else, and yet it's an island with a colourful and varied history. It's Italian now, but over the centuries it's been ruled by the Arabs, the Normans, the Spanish and the French, all of whom have left a legacy of language, culture and custom.

When it comes to wine, the tradition in Sicily was to make 'cutting wines' - that's to say deeply coloured, highly alcoholic wines (up to 18% by volume) which were exported to the Northern Italian wineries to blend with their sometimes thin and acidic wines. This has been illegal for more than forty years, so the Sicilians had to find new markets. The old vineyards were all on the plains, which with their torrid summer heat ensured that the grapes were very ripe, high in sugar and perfect for making cutting wines. This climate and the method of pruning were not suitable for making a new-style table wine, so there began a process of planting the hill-land behind the coastal plains, which has continued until today under the watchful eye of the Palermo-based Vine and Wine Institute.

Most of this re-structuring has taken place in the Western provinces of Palermo, Agrigento and Trapani, where co-operatives manage the making of wine from the production of the myriad of small-holders. The new-style wines are very different from the traditional heavy-weights; they are young, light and soft - the sort of wines that are there for easy drinking, without requiring too much aesthetic concentration. They are wines to be enjoyed; gone are the days of overly alcoholic, heavy, maderised wines. Like everywhere else today, wines are created to suit the palate of the consumer and to compete on the international market.

There is still a production of fine wines, the best known of which is 'Corvo', still made by the ancient family of Salaparuta. Others, less well-known but equally good, are the wines of Barone Villagrande made on the volcanic soils of Etna, and the Regaleali of Tasca d'Almerita.

Most of Sicily's production today goes for export, but some of the old-style wines are still made for the Northern production of Vermouths and also for the indigenous Marsala. Marsala is one of the four fortified wines beloved by the British at the height of their empire - the other three being Madeira, Port and Sherry. These wines, fortified with alcohol, were stable and could withstand lengthy sea journeys in barrel, even the rigours of Cape Horn. No matter where they were shipped they arrived in prime condition, unlike ordinary unfortified wines. Interestingly, Florio Marsala is owned by Cinzano, which in turn is owned by FIAT.

Wine of the Week

Nero d'Avola/Syrah (Zagara) 1999
The Nero d'Avola is a traditional Sicilian grape which is increasingly being blended with Syrah. It's a good example of the new breed of simple, economical Sicilian wines. Surprisingly big-bodied for the price, it's an excellent quaffing wine for under a fiver - something that's getting harder to find.

Available £4.99, Dunnes Stores.