It wasn’t that long ago when South Africa was a pariah state. You didn’t even buy oranges from there if you had a social conscience. Yet there were travellers’ tales of wonderful wines from there, with that same unreal quality of old maps with the legend ‘here be dragons’. You had to take those tales on trust, because all through the era of sanctions, these wines were unavailable outside of South Africa itself.

I happened to be in Cape Town some years ago within months of Nelson Mandela’s release. There was an extraordinary sense of optimism abounding in the country, as a long period of international isolation and condemnation had come to an end. And it was in this atmosphere of unbounded optimism that we visited vineyards and drank wines that had been hitherto unknown to me. We visited Stellenbosch and Costantia and worked our way systematically through wines from other regions in what we called ‘tastings’. They weren’t awfully scientific, but they were thorough.

There’s a long history of wine-making in South Africa; it started back in 1659 when the first wines were produced from the new vineyards on Table Mountain, mainly for trading with the Portuguese. Some twenty years later the first governor, Simon Van der Stel, promoted and encouraged the industry and within fifty years South African wines were available and appreciated in Europe, mostly their fortified wines. Perhaps the most well-known of these was ‘Vin de Constance’, a dessert wine made in the Constantia winery, which was famous for being Napoleon’s favourite after-dinner wine. They still make it, and I’ve had the pleasure of drinking it. Napoleon was no fool.

Nowadays South African wines are readily available in Ireland and their consumption is on the increase. A weak rand means that these wines come to us at very favourable prices compared to other New World wines, and wines of a very high quality can be bought cheaply in comparison with similar wines from other countries. Even the wines in the £5 to £7 range can be surprisingly good. But it’s in the higher price range that the value for money aspect really comes into its own.

A good example of the highest quality wines from the CapeTown area is the Hamilton Russell Vineyards, which has its own appellation as an estate. About 120 kilometres from Cape Town in Walker Bay, the estate enjoys a maritime climate. In Ireland you can find their ‘Southern Right’ range of Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc - the name is taken from the Southern right whales that visit Walker Bay – and their two estate wines, a Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay. Both of these last two are fermented in small French oak barrels and are the product of cool sea breezes and stony soil. What that means in wine terms is low yields and an intensity of flavour, particularly pronounced in the Chardonnay.

Wine of the Week

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay

Because of its cost, this is a wine for special occasions. It has a subtlety and complexity on a par with the finest white Burgundies, but costs considerably less than its equals. It has a rich, straw colour and is fruity and aromatic. I suspect that it would appeal across the board. Big enough to accompany even strong cheeses.

Available in most outlets, around £17.