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Its generally understood that you drink whites cold and reds warm,
and broadly speaking thats true. Still, you can enjoy your wines
much more if you take a closer look. Its essentially true that the
colder you drink a wine the less of its flavours will be apparent. You
can turn this to your advantage if you have a thin, tart little white
and nothing else to drink. Drink it very cold indeed and you might just
be able to finish the bottle.
The obverse of this is that good whites are ruined by being served too
chilled. If you should ever be lucky enough to have a fine white Burgundy,
such as Corton Charlemagne or Clos des Mouches, try drinking it at the
sort of temperature that cold water comes out of a tap and see how the
flavours explode onto your palate. This holds true of dessert wines as
well. I prefer them no cooler than cellar temperature.
In restaurants where they often serve your white wine in an ice-bucket,
the problem is this; as you work your way slowly through your bottle over
the course of your meal, its gets colder and colder. On balance
I prefer those insulated surrounds which keep the wine at a near constant
temperature.
This effect of temperature on flavour is the same for reds. Normally
a red is designed by the viticulturist to be drunk in the 17-20 degrees
Celsius range, which shows the wine off to its best advantage. However,
a very fruity and very young red, for example a Beaujolais Nouveau, benefits
from being chilled. A rough guide might be that the fruitier the red the
cooler you can drink it, the more tannic, the more it needs to approach
room temperature.
All wines need a balance of fruit and acidity, but reds have another
ingredient: tannin. Tannin acts as a preservative and imparts a tartness
to the flavour. This is dissipated when a wine is decanted by the process
of aeration. Wines with a high tannin content will need to be decanted
and allowed to stand for an hour or two before drinking. When youre
planning a meal with wine that presents no problem, but if you have a
sudden and impromptu notion for a glass of red wine, you wont have
time to decant and chambre highly tannic wines. You need one of those
wines thats immediately palatable, right from the moment of uncorking.
Australians are very good at producing this kind of wine, and many of
their reds will fill this bill.
Recently I was at a tasting of a new range of Jacobs Creek wines,
designed specifically for a more discerning drinker. There are four varietals;
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot, all designated Reserve.
These are a good deal more complex and subtle than their entry range,
but all the red wines have that instant drinkability, which makes them
perfect for a spur of the moment decision.
Pick of the Week
Jacobs Creek Shiraz Reserve 1998
A big, full wine with a strong purple colour, its partially oaked
and the fruit flavours really stand out. Long in finish, when the oak
and cherry tastes linger. Easy to drink without food, it would work equally
well when eating.
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