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There's little more personal than taste in wine. When I was a child and
French wines were affordable and all-pervasive, I remember my father arguing
with his friends over the merits of Bordeaux over Burgundy. At today's
prices you might as well argue whether a diamond is preferable to a sapphire.
I get good Bordeaus and Burgundies so rarely these days that I'm quite
simply grateful for the chance to drink either. Most of the time I drink
New World wines; wines from Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia
and New Zealand. It pays to get to know some of the names, because you
can buy a wine from these countries whose French equivalent would cost
between 50% and 100% more.
As the market in Ireland grows ever more open and French wines lose more
of their dominance, these New World wines can be found in every supermarket
and off-license. The choice is so large that it's easy to be intimidated
and revert to a French classic simply out of habit. New World wines are
different in style from the classic European wines. Fruity tastes and
aromas are more in evidence since many of these countries are producing
wines in warmer climates than their European counterparts. It's interesting
to take a varietal like Chardonnay - a wine made from a single grape variety
- and compare a wine made in a cooler climate, for example Burgundy, with
one made in a hotter climate, for example Australia. Apart from the fact
there may well be differences in the vinification, you can really taste
the difference in the wine that a more mature grape creates. It hits the
palate quicker and harder, but the intensity of flavour often lasts less
time. In general, a cooler climate chardonnay will be less instant on
the palate, it'll have a slower build up of flavour, but the tastes will
remain longer.
Now that South Africa is no longer a pariah state many of their fine
wines can be bought in Ireland. South African reds can be quite superb.
It might be worth taking a wine like Meerlust Rubicon that is generally
accepted as being a fine example of South African wine-making just to
see if that particular style of wine is to your taste. Plaisir de Merle
and Klein Constantia are wines in a similar mould and are to some extent
indicative of what's on offer. The three I've mentioned are wines that
stood out in a wine tasting I went to in Cape Town. The white Plaisir
de Merle is affordable and good, but for a real treat the winery of Klein
Constantia make a dessert wine called Vin de Constance, which is one of
world's greats.
Generally speaking Chardonnay does well in Australia and the Australians
have been at the forefront of new methods of vinification including anaerobic,
which is done in sealed vats with no oxygen. This is particularly effective
with white wines, as it results in much of fruity flavours being retained.
Apart from ripe grapes, this method has resulted in the style of wine
that is common in Australia - that full, rich bouquet and heavy perfume
- now being copied in Europe. These are easy-drinking wines that are immediately
acceptable - a quality that for some is to their detriment, since it's
possible to become tired eventually of such instant appeal. Despite this
caveat I'm very fond of Aust ralian whites, perhaps more so than the reds,
where I prefer more complexity of flavour. That said, if you get a chance
to drink a bottle of Penfold's 'Grange', their flagship red, you're in
for a real treat.
Recently I was at a wine tasting of a range of New Zealand wines, a country
with a strong export drive and a growing wine industry. Their single largest
grape variety is the Sauvignon Blanc, a grape that in the Old World never
quite manages to create the complexity of the Chardonnay. In cooler climates
the grape can have something of an odour of cat's urine, but in New Zealand
the grape really shines and wines made here from this grape come as a
bit of a surprise. I tasted four or five of Corban's varietals, all of
which managed to create a complex wine, long on the palate, that were
better than any European Sauvignon Blanc that I've tasted. Probably my
current favourite wine from New Zealand is Cloudy Bay, but it's a very
limited production and isn't easy to source.
South America is rapidly making gains in the Irish market, in particular
wines from Chile and Argentina. Again their style tends to be different
from the European norm and is closer to the Antipodean wines. Probably
the best known Chilean wines are from Concha y Toro, who have wineries
in both Chile and Argentina. These are very much in the middleprice range
and represent good value for money. One of my favourite Argentinean wines
recently on the market is Navarro Correas, which is currently a 1994 and
a Reserva. Big and complex, it's well-balanced between fruit and acidity
and is a good example of the kind of wine-making that Argentina specialises
in. None of these would take the place of a great Claret in my heart,
but for less exalted drinking they're a lot closer to what I can afford.
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