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The cold days of winter come with their own pleasures: afternoon walks
in the crisp air under a low sun; gathering berries from hedgerows; listening
to your footsteps on hoar-frosted grass and deep in winter, enjoying the
snow. Coming in from the cold after outdoor pursuits like these calls
for the welcome of a glass of something hot, and preferably alcoholic.
Sitting in front of a blazing fire, making toast on toasting forks and
drinking a glass of mulled wine, is the stuff our winter traditions are
made of.
A traditional mulled wine recipe, reputedly Dr. Johnson's favourite,
is made like this. Take a bottle of decent claret and pour it into a stainless
steel pot. Add one thinly sliced orange, 12 sugar cubes and 6 cloves.
Bring it nearly to the boil and then stir in 1 pint of boiling water,
a quarter pint of orange curacao and a quarter pint of brandy. Take it
off the heat and warm a punch bowl by washing it in very hot water. Pour
in the punch and serve it in wine glasses with a pinch of grated nutmeg
in each.
To make a simpler variation, often known as Gluhwein, put a litre of
red wine into a pot with 4 slices of lemon, each studded with two cloves.
Add 3 cinnamon sticks and 4 tablespoons of caster sugar and stir it over
a moderate heat with a wooden spoon until almost boiling. Strain off the
gluhwein and serve it in mugs.
Another traditional hot winter drink is Hot Buttered Rum. To make one
drink, rinse a mug in hot water and shake it dry. Put in one and a quarter
teaspoons of caster sugar, one inch of cinnamon stick (or a pinch of ground
cinnamon), a measure of rum and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Pour
in hot milk, add half an ounce of butter, stir well and top off with a
sprinkle of ground nutmeg.
Sir Roger de Coverley gave his name not only to a dance, but also to
this hot drink. Take a bottle of red wine, a glass of port, a small measure
of orange curacao, a flat teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, 6 cloves and
a sprinkle of grated nutmeg. Bring it all to simmering point, stirring
all the while. Strain it and serve it in warmed wine glasses. No one needs
a recipe for an Irish coffee or a hot whiskey, but when it comes to thawing
out both are hard to beat. With all these delights available to the kitchen
alchemist, you can bring a warm glow to those hard winter days.
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