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Okay, I didn't read the invitation properly. I just saw the words 'lunch
at Number 10' and set off for Kevin Arundel's excellent restaurant called
Number 10, Longfield. I got lucky, found a meter and stuffed it with coins,
ran through the pouring rain and met Kevin in his entrance hall. He couldn't
have been more welcoming - except that I was in the wrong place. I think
I did the goldfish impression - the one where your mouth just opens and
closes wordlessly for a moment or two. 'There is another Number 10,' he
suggested helpfully, 'it's on the quays. Maybe that's where you should
be.' And indeed after a couple of phone calls we found out that that was
exactly where I was supposed to be. Number 10 Ormonde Quay, to be precise.
Number 10 Ormonde Quay is an exquisitely restored early Georgian house
that you can hire out for events. Beautiful furniture graces the rooms
and the walls are hung with some very fine paintings, from the eighteenth
century to the twentieth. This particular event, for which I was only
just on time, was a lunch hosted by Tesco to show off their range of ready-made
meals and foods which are sold under the name 'Finest'. Very nice the
lunch was too, and some bits, the French onion soup for instance, was
very good indeed. With food this good easily available at your nearest
supermarket, it got me thinking about pre-prepared meals; who buys them,
why they buy them, what dishes they buy and are they any good. And then
it hit me. No major epiphany, just a little thought about social change.
As I write, early next year is the proposed advent of a smoking prohibition.
What, I wondered, will committed smokers do when they can no longer smoke
in a restaurant? Not smoke at all is one answer, but another might be
to make alternative arrangements. Like buy in the pre-prepared food and
eat it at home in a miasma of blue smoke, where no one can tap you on
the shoulder and say 'Oi, you, put that out!'
I had arranged to go to dinner with Susan Hunter, who being a Sutton
girl, was keen that we go out somewhere on the north side, like Howth,
for instance. As is so often the way of these things, her suggestion as
to where we should go fitted in perfectly with my newly emergent thoughts
on pre-prepared foods. 'There's a new place opened in Howth called 'Cibo'
and they sell ready-to-go meals. My friend Helen Seymour has an apartment
overlooking the harbour, so we could buy our dinner and eat it at her
place with some decent wine.' Sounded good to me, so with weather warnings
all over the radio promising 'severe storm force 11', we set off for Howth
harbour. Naturally all the fishing boats were in, the rain seemed to be
horizontal, the wind seemed set to remove a roof or two, and we ran into
Cibo dripping wet.
Inside it's very purposeful: there's a big chill counter set up with
all the food stuffs on display in containers that are designed to be put
either into an oven or a microwave. As I studied the arrayed foods I got
a glimpse of the small town reality of Howth village and its surroundings.
'Hello, Susan,' said the man behind the counter. She hadn't seen him for
twenty years - not since schooldays - but they recognised each other at
once. So while they reminisced I checked out the counter. Three beef dishes,
three chicken dishes, three fish dishes and three vegetarian, six starters
or side-orders, and six desserts. As a rough guide to prices, starters
were €3.95, main courses €6.95 or €7.95 and puddings €3.95.
I went to work and picked out a chicken and mushroom risotto; monkfish
with green beans and an anchovy and onion sauce; and a smoked haddock,
sweet corn, pea and mashed potato pie. For starters I picked out some
garlic bread, a crab and Gruyere tartlet, a goats' cheese tartlet with
pesto and red peppers, and gratinated scallops with mustard and breadcrumbs.
I let sweet-toothed Susan pick out the desserts: a chocolate biscuit cake,
some chocolate nut squares, a lemon and mascarpone mousse and some tiramisu,
just to be sure that we wouldn't go hungry. A bit over €50 spent,
and there was enough here to feed a small army.
Thankfully Helen's apartment was close by, so in a moment we were happily
ensconced, a glass of wine in hand and the food in the oven warming up.
Twenty minutes later, as per instructions, we were tasting it. I have
the results of the three-person jury in front of me now, and the voting
went as follows: for the starters the winner was the Gruyere and crab
meat tartlet, a really exceptional mix of flavours. Close behind came
the goats' cheese tartlet, and after that the scallops. These last were
a very generous portion that could have fed two. If I had a reservation
at all, it was only that the tartlets had been baked blind and then filled,
rather than baked along with the filling, but maybe that's the only way
to keep the casings crisp.
The main courses were every bit as good, and once again the jury chose
a unanimous winner - the haddock, corn, pea and potato pie. The chicken
risotto came a close second with the monkfish a close third. It was nothing
other than gluttony that kept me going after this. There were still four
desserts to savour and here there was less unanimity. I really liked the
lemon and mascarpone mousse, while the girls preferred the chocolatey
things.
It seems to me that if you want a meal in a hurry or if you want to entertain
people at home but don't feel like cooking, then a pre-prepared meal is
the answer. By the way, 'Cibo' means 'food' in Italian and it's pronounced
'chee-bo'.
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