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Since I came back from the continent this summer, where thanks to the
Euro we now have total price transparency, I've been doing a lot of complaining
about prices and general rip-offs over here. Some of our prices are unavoidable:
the high price we pay for wine is entirely down to the massive tax take
imposed on it by the government, so console yourself with the thought
that you're helping Charlie McCreevey out of an economic black hole every
time you buy a bottle of wine. We pay high prices in restaurants as well,
apart from the cost of wine. New Yorkers are reeling in shock from the
recently announced statistic that since 911 their restaurant prices have
rocketed to an average of €35 per person for dinner. Yup, that's
right; you can dine in Manhattan for €35 a person. €45 buys
you dinner in London and if you're very careful where you go, €45
might just get you dinner in Dublin.
So why are Dublin restaurants more expensive than those in Manhattan?
Partly it's the cost of the raw ingredients, which cost more in Ireland
than anywhere else in Euroland. Once you've subtracted the VAT from your
restaurant bill, about 35% of what's left goes on the raw food costs.
Wages take up the guts of 40%, so there's 25% left to cover everything
else. That 'everything else' also happens to include insurances, an expense
on businesses that shows no sign of easing off. This year restaurants
around the country are being hit for massive increases in their insurance
premiums. This extra money has to be got from somewhere, and that somewhere
is from the consumer. We all get to make insurance companies richer every
time we eat out. Isn't that a comforting thought?
So apart from the government and insurance companies, who else gets a
slice of the bill? Why, the banks of course. The raft of health legislation
and everything else that applies to restaurants means that you couldn't
set up a restaurant and get change from €250,000. Not many people
have that sort of sum hanging around in a bed-side table, so it nearly
always comes from a bank. Servicing that money alone takes up a big chunk
of your bill, as does replacing breakages, food waste, maintenance, telephones
and light and heat. If you think restaurants are being greedy and are
making huge profits, you may change your mind as many of them start to
close in the coming twelve months. The truth is that too many people and
institutions are taking slices of the pie and what's left is barely enough
to keep the successful restaurants going.
Despite all this, I'm still outraged at the cost of bottled water. At
an average of a euro a litre on the supermarket shelves, it costs more
than petrol. But when it comes to you at a restaurant table at anywhere
between €6 and €10 a litre, you really need to take stock. It's
simply insane to pay that much for water. Let me encourage you to do this:
first ask your waiter 'how much is the bottled water per litre?', if the
answer's over €5 say 'I'll take a jug of iced tap water, please.'
It's time for consumers to make themselves heard and end this madness.
Here's another thing that annoys me in restaurants, and judging by your
emails to me, it annoys a lot of you as well. It's the credit card slip
that leaves a space for a 'gratuity' after a service charge has already
been added to your bill. Frankly this isn't on; you either leave a tip
or you pay a service charge, you can't be expected to do both. And before
any waiting staff email me to say that you don't get the service charge
and you rely on the tips that are left over and above that, let me suggest
you take action against this illegal behaviour of your employer by reporting
him to the relevant authorities. You can't expect the customer to pay
for someone else's law-breaking.
With all that off my chest you could be forgiven for thinking that I
was becoming pessimistic. Well, I was a bit. But then a trip through the
midlands revived my faith. My wife and I were driving to the West and
all we wanted was a simple lunch. We stopped at a well-known truck stop
on the N4 and were appalled at the scruffy, untidy and litter-strewn place.
Despite our hunger we got back into the car and drove on as far as Rathowen,
where another road-side pub, Feerick's Half Way House, sported several
trucks in its large car park. The name was perfectly apt for our journey,
so in we went. Don't expect to see the name outside - I didn't see any
name at all - but the one I've given you was on the bill.
Inside it was bright, clean and comfortable and even though it was after
3pm they were still serving lunch. The service was friendly and prompt
and we ate well. Nothing gourmet, just well made food and presented simply
and cleanly. A steak sandwich and chips for me, egg mayonnaise and a salad
for Susie, as well as potato salad for both of us. It's as easy to make
food this simple taste awful as it is to do it right, but here it was
faultless and it put me in a great mood for the rest of our journey. We
drank a glass of lager each and then I got change from €20. It's
been a long time since I got value for money like that, and it shows that
it can be done.
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