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It's true what they say, there are parts of Dublin's centre that are
determinedly trying to establish a cafe society. Within a few yards of
Grafton Street there are places that have tables and chairs set up outside
and some serve good coffee as well, a pre-requisite for a cafe society.
Sadly, there's one ingredient that's been missing this year. Yes, you
guessed, that thing called sunshine. It's hard enough to force yourself
to sit at an outdoor table with a chilly wind licking at your face, even
if like me you've acquired an ability to endure the rigours of an Irish
summer, but rain will definitely drive you indoors. No amount of umbrellas
or patio heaters are going to help much, you simply can't sip an espresso
with any pleasure in a downpour.
Which is what gives the new Plaza Cafe Bar outside the Gaiety something
of an advantage: it's got a roof. High above the tables and chairs that
skirt the newly created plaza, is a glass roof. It lets in the light,
is high enough not to be intrusive and most importantly, it keeps out
the rain. What you can get here, apart from a decent coffee, is panini.
Between €5 and €8 gets you a variety of bread-based snacks -
ciabatta, focaccia, baguette and bagel come with a variety of filling,
both hot and cold. There are salads and desserts on offer, as well as
ice-creams.
I sat there recently with my friend Hugo Jellet, and although I'd arrived
in pleasant weather, a brief shower made us grateful for the roof over
our heads. Hugo chose the vegetarian quiche Lorraine, and I chose the
olive ciabatta with Parma ham, mozzarella and rocket. Both of these snacks
were well-made, but I thought mine much the better - exactly balanced
flavours bringing me memories of Italy. There's a decent wine list too,
with quarter bottles and half bottles, from which we picked a half bottle
of Casillero del Diablo at €10.90. When your feet need a rest from
too much shopping in Grafton Street, or if you're waiting for your significant
other to finish shopping, the Plaza cafe makes for a pleasing stop.
As something of an alternative to the urban delights of Grafton Street,
you could try making a visit to the more bucolic delights of Macreddin
Village, deep in the Wicklow Hills near Aughrim. The village was green
fields a few years ago, but it now has a good hotel and a restaurant called
The Strawberry Tree, as well as a small street of shops, houses and a
pub called Acton's. On the first Sunday of each month, and on the third
as well during the summer, Macreddin Village hosts an organic market,
where traders line the street with a wide range of organic products. We
arrived on a third Sunday recently, which is slightly less crowded than
the first Sundays. It's easy to get carried away and spend more than you
intended as you pass freshly made organic breads of all sorts of shapes
and sizes, organic meats that are so well presented you'd almost devour
them raw, sauces, preserves, pulses and legumes, plants, fish - you name
it, the chances are you can find it. Personally I'm a sucker for the smoked
eel from Cork, which comes vacuum packed, so it's a doddle to take home
in a car.
As you walk the little street and linger at the stalls you can even stop
for a beer from Macreddin's own micro-brewery. But if the hunger starts
to gnaw at the belly, you can stop again and choose your meal from Acton's
Sunday Barbecue. A couple chefs and their helpers work a big stainless
steel barbecue from where you can choose a marinated chicken breast or
a home-made burger, spicy wedges served traditionally in a newspaper cone,
or something more substantial. Big, succulent steaks of swordfish, steak
and onions, flat Portobello mushrooms with courgettes, or venison sausages
served with ciabatta are the options, all served with salads such as potato,
pasta and herbed rice.
The exigencies of barbecues for large numbers are such that food needs
to be par-cooked before it gets its final re-heating on the griddle, but
that means that a rare steak isn't a possibility. Consequently it was
venison sausage for John, the children and I, and swordfish for Lainey
and Isabella. With your paper plate in hand, your disposable wooden cutlery
in the other, you find yourself a table on the extensive lawns or the
patio and Acton's young staff look after your drinks order. €9.50
buys you any of the main courses, while €4.50 buys you the burger
or chicken.
Sitting on the lawn at a circular table with wooden benches constructed
to fit snugly around it, we settled down to our barbecued lunch. The sun
made a rare appearance and we looked down towards the river over a very
large lawn on which was a marquee. Maybe the wind changed direction, but
gradually we became aware of music coming from the marquee - guitar, keyboards
and a female voice combined perfectly - old standards like 'Cry me a River'
and 'The Girl from Ipanema' so well performed that at first we thought
we were listening to a CD. I was so impressed I had to go to the tent
and listen up close to the Nigel Mooney Band - for it was they - and finished
the last of my spring water there.
We came for some organic produce, but ended up with some tasty barbecued
food and great music as well. Proof, if it was needed, that there's much
pleasure to be had outside the capital as well as in it. If a Sunday drive
is your idea of fun, Macreddin Village makes a good destination.
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