Pancetta is a mildly cured cut of pork belly, very similar to streaky bacon which we will use if no pancetta is to hand. Either fillet fresh trout or buy the pre-prepared fillets. Slice each fillet in half lengthways and using kitchen tweezers remove any remaining bones. Trim a slice of streaky of streaky bacon to the size of the fillet and plait the bacon and fillet together. An elegant tying technique is to blanch an outer leaf of leek for a couple of minutes in boiling water. You can tear thin strips off along the length which you can use to tie the ends of the plaits together so that they won't unravel.

Heat a frying pan with a little olive oil and when it's hot place the tied fillets gently in the pan. Turn after a minute and allow a minute for the other side. Place the fillets on an oven flat, pour a little melted butter over them and put them in a pre-heated medium oven for five minutes or so. Serve this dish with its own pan juices, a little freshly ground pepper and accompany it with a rocket salad.