Risotto is the Italian for a dish made with riso, the Italian for rice. There are as many recipes for risotto as there are towns in Italy, but some work better than others. Italians make their risotto with Italian rice, most often Arborio, although fancier varieties are available. And they cook it by the gradual addition of stock to the rice - as it cooks and absorbs liquid.

There are many ways to cook rice, each suited to a particular dish. Let's start with plain white rice. Take a large saucepan, fill it with water and bring it to the boil. Now salt it and add the rice, about 2 oz per person for a small helping, three for a large. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon while the water bubbles vigorously. Between fifteen and eighteen minutes is about right for the cooking time, although just as with pasta, it's a good idea to start tasting from fifteen minutes on to ensure the rice doesn't become over-cooked. When it's ready, drain it through a sieve or fine colander. Put it into a heated, shallow dish and allow the rice to dry.

Just like gnocchi and pasta, the addition of nothing more than butter and grated parmesan makes excellent eating. However you can at this stage add whatever pleases you to the rice: tomato sauce, quartered boiled eggs, peas, fried mushrooms, meatballs, bacon, or in moments of wild abandon, white truffles.

An alternative and successful way of cooking rice is by the total absorption method. For one cup of rice use three cups of water or stock. Melt a knob of butter in a saucepan and pour in the rice. Stir with a wooden spoon until all the grains are coated. Now add the water and stir once more. Let the water come to the boil and then turn down the heat to a simmer. When all the water has been absorbed the rice is cooked.