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Although the Tuscans make a spinach and ricotta dumpling which they call
gnocchi verdi, traditionally gnocchi are made from potatoes. Mashed potato
and flour are mixed together to make a paste hard enough to roll out like
dough. The problem is this: the more flour you add the easier it is to
make the gnocchi and the more like hard little bullets they will be. Less
flour makes the gnocchi far more palatable. The secret is in cooking the
potatoes. The less moisture there is in the final mash, the less flour
will be needed. Waxy, Italian potatoes work best of all, but any waxy
potato steamed, rather than boiled, will produce good gnocchi. Microwaving
the potatoes works well, too. Try not to let the potato to flour ratio
go below 4/1. Roughly half a pound of plain flour, but no more, to two
pounds of potatoes.
You can add a little butter and one egg per pound of potatoes, but if
you have a runny mix it will make things worse. Salt the paste to taste.
Roll out some of the paste on a board until you have a snake about the
thickness of a finger. Cut this into roughly inch-long pieces. Give each
piece a squeeze in the middle to make it curl slightly. Cook the gnocchi
by dropping them one at a time into salted, boiling water. They will float
to the top when they're cooked. As they cook, take them out of the pan
and put them into a pre-heated oven dish with a little butter.
Gnocchi in bianco.
About as simple as you can get. Stir butter into the gnocchi and then
grate on fresh parmesan. And that's it. This combination of butter and
parmesan works equally well with pasta. Many children prefer this dish
to all others.
Gnocchi alla Zia Rosa
My Aunt Rosa has gnocchi down to fine art. I've never tasted better than
hers. She is a traditionalist in this; she believes that gnocchi work
best with a strong sugo, that is a well boiled-down tomato sauce in which
there is either streaky bacon (pancetta) or sausage.
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